Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than [BLANK], and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than [BLANK].
A - Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than their wavelength, and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than their wavelength.
B - Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than their amplitude, and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than their amplitude.
C - Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than their speed, and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than their speed.
D - Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than their period, and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than their period.
The correct answer is:
A - Deep-water waves travel in water that is deeper than their wavelength, and shallow-water waves travel in water that is shallower than their wavelength.
Understanding Deep-water Waves and Shallow-water Waves
Deep-water waves are characterized by having a wavelength that is significantly longer compared to the depth of the water. These waves are not affected by the seabed or the water depth, and their behavior is primarily determined by their wavelength and period. In deep water, such as the open ocean, the water depth is much greater than the wavelength of the waves, allowing them to propagate freely without interacting with the ocean floor.
Shallow-water waves, on the other hand, have a wavelength that is comparable to or smaller than the depth of the water. As a result, these waves are affected by the seabed and the water depth. Shallow-water waves typically occur in coastal areas, where the water depth is relatively shallow. The interaction with the seabed causes changes in the wave speed and shape, leading to shoaling and breaking near the shore.
It is important to understand the distinction between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves as it affects their behavior and interaction with the environment. Deep-water waves propagate freely in deep ocean waters, while shallow-water waves are influenced by the seabed and water depth in coastal areas. Each type of wave has its own unique characteristics and plays a crucial role in shaping coastal processes and marine environments.